We visited Jerash and the Amman Citadel before driving to Petra. I had no idea what to expect in Jerash - maybe a couple of ruins before heading to one of Jordan's treasures. But it's a lot more than a couple of ruins - it's a Greco-Roman city full of exquisite ruins and fascinating facts. An intact amphitheater, replete with Jordanian bagpiper and drummers, reveals the genius of ancient acoustic engineering. Put your ear to one circular niche and chat to your buddy on the opposite side of the arena. Totally audible despite the bagpiper, and distant repeats of Fur Elise piped not from an ice cream van, but the man selling gas bottles door to door in modern Jerash.